Pack a Sandwich

It doesn't have to be like that. You just hiked for hours straight up a mountain. You deserve a glorious feast worthy of your triumph! Or at least a better sandwich. As is often the case, we look to the peasant food of Europe for our high-tone fare. Ever heard of the pan bagnat? A humble sailor's lunch from Nice, the pan bagnat travels exceptionally well.

The name means "bathed bread" because a crusty, rustic loaf (even a leftover loaf a little past its prime) is slathered with olive oil and stuffed with super-juicy vegetables. And here's the good part: This sandwich actually improves after being smashed in a CamelBak for three hours.

Essentially, the ingredients are similar to those in a Niçoise salad, but don't let people tell you that you absolutely must use oil-packed tuna. You probably don't have any, and it wasn't an ingredient in the traditional sandwich, because tuna was too expensive. Anchovies are traditional, but you probably don't have those either, and they're rather polarizing, so do what you like.

Use the best tomatoes you can find, because their flavor really stands out. Don't use Romas or other paste tomatoes, because they're not juicy enough.

What's really important is the bread. The mini paisano rolls from Sage Bakehouse (535 Cerrillos Road, 820-7243) are a good shape and size for a sandwich big enough to share; the full-size paisano makes enough for a crowd. Just pick a high-quality loaf with a solid crust. If it's too tall, hollow it out a bit. You can even slightly grill the bread to firm it up—or just add a little extra flavor.

PEAK BAGNAT

• 1 loaf crusty bread
• garlic cloves
• olive oil
• oil-cured olives, pitted (or a little tapenade)
• oil-packed tuna or anchovies, crumbled or chopped
• capers
• red wine vinegar
• big, juicy tomatoes, sliced
• fresh basil and/or mint leaves
• cucumber, peeled, seeded and sliced
• shallot or onion, thinly sliced
• hard-boiled egg
• lettuce

Hollow out the bread a little if it's too thick. Pop it on the grill for a few minutes if you like. Then take a clove of garlic, slice it in half and rub the cut edge all over the rough edges of the bread's interior. You may need a couple of cloves.

Sprinkle the bread with olive oil and a splash of vinegar. If you're using oil-packed tuna or anchovies, use some of that oil. If you have anchovy paste, you can schmear it on now. Throw some capers in there if you like them.

Cover the bread halves with tomato slices. (If you're not using salty olives or anchovies, you can salt the tomatoes.) Top with a generous layer of basil and/or mint leaves. Keep going with the cucumbers and shallots. Add the egg if you want it. Finish with a layer of greens. You really can't mess this part up.

But you do have to wrap the sandwich carefully in several layers of plastic wrap and let it sit for a few hours, preferably with weight on it. You can leave it on the counter under a cast iron pan with a couple of tin cans in it, tuck it under heavier stuff in the picnic basket or just cram it into the bottom of your backpack. It needs at least one hour, preferably two or three, but it will still be great eight hours later.

If you've weighted the sandwich, it'll be easier to cut into wedges, so pack a knife.

And while you're at it, throw in a box or can of wine. This is what those things are made for. This is the exact occasion. Unwrap your Niçoise sandwich, crack a can of rosé and just look at that view. It's freaking majestic.

Santa Fe Reporter