There's no farmhouse at Rowley, but it is hidden back far enough off of Cerrillos to be country quiet. The farmhouse here refers to Rowley's award-winning beers, that is, farmhouse ales. Many different styles fit under that moniker, but the beers Rowley is known for tend to be perfect for drinking on a farm: funky, earthy, tart and dry. Easy drinking is made easier by the laid-back yet well-curated menu of rustic pub food from chef Jeffrey Kaplan. There are the comfort foods that sizzle in a cast-iron pan, such as a three-cheese (mozzarella, parmesan and blue) mac and cheese ($11), and more refined options highlighting nature's bounty including a farmers market risotto ($14) studded with local, in-season vegetables. Sandwiches and burgers require steady hands and many napkins. The wild Gulf shrimp po' boy ($17) overflows with salty, sweet, flash-fried shrimp in a dripping current of spicy remoulade. Rowley's kitchen achieves the impossible with its Impossible burger ($14), coaxing crunchy, charred edges out of a product notoriously difficult to cook correctly. And no rustic meal would be complete without a sweet finish, the kind you might find cooling on a farmhouse window sill. Rowley doesn't disappoint, offering a seasonal fruit crumble ($7) (in summer, tart cherries paired with sweet peaches) and a hearty Challah bread pudding ($6). Though many come for the beer, it's the food they stay for.