An upscale take on coming home to grandma's house, Eloisa greets guests with a shiny open kitchen at the head of the restaurant, a cool, huge dining room and unassuming table settings, right down to blue china plates that could be straight out of Gram's cupboard. Located in the Drury Plaza Hotel just east of the St. Francis Cathedral, the menu is divided into four sections: Puebloan Native American, Spanish Colonial, Western/Territorial, and Mestizo, reflecting the culinary traditions of New Mexico's past. The Zuni tamalli ($14) with nixtamal masa, smoked trout and horseradish crema is one of the more unique offerings, and for something more savory, the pastrami tacos ($14) come in mini blue-corn shells and are plated on a photo of chef John Sedlar's Grandma Eloisa herself. The grilled venison chop ($36) pays homage to our mountain communities with super smooth mashed potatoes and roasted carrots, while Eloisa's red chile in the chile-braised brisket ($32) is made with a New Mexico cabernet and makes us wish some auntie was around to jot the recipe down on an index card for us. And you can't leave grandma's house without cookies; the biscochitos ($9) are served with popcorn-flavored ice cream and stir up the fondest feelings of nostalgia.

228 E Palace Ave., 982-0883
Lunch Monday-Friday; dinner daily; Sunday brunch
eloisasantafe.com
Instagram: @eloisasantafe_