There are hearty sandwiches at lunchtime and a case of jars of garlic, relishes and cheeses, but rest assured, this restaurant is much more than a bodega. With a menu that changes each month, chef and owner Noela Figueroa aims for fine fare in a relaxed vibe off Cerrillos Road. Water out of sweet little enamel cups, modern kitchen gadgets for sale and funk music playing at 10:30 am on a Saturday complete the ambiance. We got a stack of three blue corn pancakes ($15) that easily could have fed an entire family, along with a poblano, pork cheek and sweet potato hash ($14) that took a moment longer because, as our server said apologetically, "They're still getting the new menu just right" (it was only the second day of the month). But indeed, the kitchen did get it just right. We tore into tart lime curd and pilfered local blackberries from the common pancake plate, mixed in pickle relish with the poblanos and eggs and stayed for much longer than we intended. A glimpse of salmon topped with jiggly over-easy eggs as it passed our table guaranteed another visit—this menu would only be around for a month, though, so I couldn't delay.

Bodega Prime
1291 San Felipe Ave., 303-3535
Breakfast and lunch Tuesday-Friday;
brunch Saturday and Sunday
Twitter: @bodegaprime
Instagram: @BodegaPrime