Part of the problem with Spanish wine has been its lack of specificity. The wine regions of Spain are huge, with Rioja itself containing about 152,328 acres of vineyards; further, the historic Bordelaise style on which fine Spanish winemaking is based did not stake itself in the elevation of certain vineyard sites (a sort of “cru” system) that has now become a modern prerequisite for the marketability of a fine wine region. But that is changing, in part due to the groundbreaking work of Telmo Rodriguez, who, along with his partner Pablo Eguzkiza, has been buying up forgotten or abandoned vineyard sites with the intention of preserving the planting of indigenous Spanish varieties. In the process, they have made some truly fantastic wines. This wine was crafted in a small, 17th-century bodega a few kilometers outside the town of Haro, and is a callback to what Rioja could be before it became dominated by large estates, before machine harvesting and chemical fertilizing. The native yeast strains of Rioja can be found in the air here and are used in the wine, which is deep, bold, layered and ultimately completely satisfying.