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Home / Articles / Food /  Food Writing
 
Wednesday, October 28,2009
Food Writing

Going Local Means Getting Large

Scaling up the local food economy depends on finding regular buyers

Zane Fischer

Hand me a sealed plastic bag of so-called “food” on an airplane and my instinct instinct is to say, “If any portion of the high cost of my airplane ticket is justified by the expense of this nasty little sack of over-processed by-products, please give me the home address of your CEO because I desperately want to wake him in the night by ramming these airplane-shaped graham crackers down his throat.”

Wednesday, October 21,2009
Food Writing

Colter’s Ghost

La Plazuela manages a perfect renovation and one hell of a posole

Zane Fischer

Remember when La Plazuela restaurant—the house eatery for La Fonda hotel—was like an all-terrain skate bowl? Stepping from the lobby into the dining room was like entering a lopsided universe of chunky stone that drained toward a rocky vortex at the center. Not only was sure footing unlikely, but tables, plates and drinks listed with the tilt of the bowl. It was like eating in a dramatic, frozen ocean.

Wednesday, October 14,2009
Food Writing

Corner Clash

Casual cafés offer catty-corner confrontation and controversial coinage

Zane Fischer

Red patio umbrellas face yellow patio umbrellas across Old Santa Fe Trail and on opposite sides of the Santa Fe River. The colorful umbrellas on sturdy, upright poles are not exactly flags flying from pikes, but I nonetheless think of them as signs of the clash between two new restaurants: a brasserie versus bistro brawl.

Wednesday, October 7,2009
Food Writing

Global Martinizing

Martín Rios finds a restaurant that suits him—his own

Zane Fischer

Martín Rios—steeped in Southwestern tradition, trained in French technique, given to Asian flair, as capable with pastry and dessert as he is with entrées ranging from Old World to New, and generally global in his grokking of gastronomy—has finally opened a restaurant of his own that feels capable of containing his range.

Wednesday, September 30,2009
Food Writing

Irregular Joe

A seasonal shift is captured with surprising grace

Zane Fischer

One of these years, I am going to rock the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta. I am going to hit the tastings, the luncheons, the tours—you name it and I will be there, and whatever is being served will be in my mouth. But not this year. Fortunately, there was the “Harvest Wine Dinner” at Joe’s.

Wednesday, September 23,2009
Food Writing

Farmwashing?

Local food should be more than window dressing

Zane Fischer

In Santa Fe, where the locavore scene has been spreading like monkeys without a chaperone for several years, touting ingredients as “local” no longer cuts it: You’ve got to name specific farmers. Is it farmwashing? Neighborwashing? Of just the beginning of a good thing?

Wednesday, September 16,2009
Food Writing

Natural Selection

Choosing a steak is a meaty question

Zane Fischer

The USDA definition of "natural" means a so-labelled steak not only can legally come from a penned-in, grain-fed, cannibalistic steer pumped up on antibiotics and freaky hormones, it most likely does.

Wednesday, September 9,2009
Food Writing

Newcomer

La Lucciola don’t need no stinkin’ restaurant

Zane Fischer

At a technically illegal, kind of racy, strangely elegant, more-or-less underground supper club, a prominent local chef sitting next to me had this to say on tasting the rack of lamb with rosemary-salt-dusted peaches and salsa verde: “I just came in my pants.”

Wednesday, September 2,2009
Food Writing

Buen Sabor

Celebrate 400 years—and then some—of food

Zane Fischer

Among a slew of allegedly cultural events, the Santa Fe School of Cooking has collaborated with Santa Fe 400th organizers to create Sabores de Santa Fe: A Tapestry of Taste. Ten Santa Fe chefs and food gurus will offer demonstrations, workshops and tastings at Fort Marcy Park on Saturday and Sunday, Sept. 5 and 6.

Wednesday, August 26,2009
Food Writing

Rooting

A new book profiles farmers who refuse to fit the agribusiness mold

Zane Fischer

Even against the monochromatic face of agribusiness, there are thousands and thousands of small, independent, innovative, hard-headed, charismatic, off-beat—unconventional, even—farmers who are doing things their own way. Lisa M Hamilton found three and wrote a book.

 
 
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