A Bitter Love Story: The Aromatics of Cocktails

I first discovered mixology (the study of spirits and classic cocktails) in 2004, while living in Washington DC. America's mixology renaissance first hit the East Coast in the late '90s, hopped to the West Coast within the decade and has since trickled throughout the country. Aromatics are of utmost importance to cooks and cocktails because we "taste" first through our noses.

Many are surprised to learn that "cocktail" is not a catchall term for alcoholic beverages, but rather a classification of mixed drink comprised of only spirits, bitters, sugar and water. The quintessential cocktail is the Old Fashioned, created in the early 1800s, was made of exactly—and only—those ingredients.

Bitters are used in food and nonalcoholic beverages, but most commonly in cocktails. One of my early teachers, renowned expert Robert Hess, explained, "Bitters are to cocktails as salt is to soup," because they temper both acidity and sweetness.

Fruity, savory and exotic flavors are now made in-house by bartenders and enthusiasts, as well as larger and artisanal companies. These are a few well-known (and one local) brands to try:

Angostura: Initially created in 1824 by a German doctor living in Angostura, Venezuela, who brewed tropical botanicals as medicine, the company is now based in Trinidad and Tobago. The ingredients are secret, but it smacks of baking spices and a little spicy, woodsy kick.

Peychaud's: Created by New Orleans apothecary owner Antoine Amedie Peychaud in the 1800s, aromas include anise, clove and nutmeg with hints of cherry and cinnamon. They are a bit sweeter than Angostura and called for, specifically, in one of the earliest cocktails, the Sazerac.

Fee Brothers: A family business since 1864, they now boast nearly 100 different products. Offering largely one-flavor bitters such as lemon, grapefruit and rhubarb, they also have a whiskey barrel-aged formula that complements dark spirits beautifully.

Bitter End: Every batch is crafted with spices, herbs, fruits, chiles and other aromatic botanicals right here in Santa Fe. There are seven renditions, each with culinary slants: Chesapeake Bay, Curry, Jamaican Jerk, Memphis Barbeque, Mexican Mole, Moroccan and Thai.

Añejo Old Fashioned

Although early versions of the Old Fashioned were made with rye whiskey or brandy, this Southwestern twist follows the classic model: spirits, bitters, sugar, water (ice).

2 ounces añejo tequila

Several dashes bitters

1 sugar cube or teaspoon simple syrup (sugar water)

1 ice sphere or large cube

Stir bitters, simple syrup and tequila. Add ice.

*For extra flavor, add a few dashes of bitters to water before freezing into ice.

Santa Fe Reporter