Essential New Mexican

The Big Chill & The Best Chile

Whether it's for red, green or Christmas, smothered or salsa en el lado, Santa Feans' love for New Mexico chile only deepens with the changing seasons.

Chile's grip on the psyche of Santa Fe and New Mexico seems to strengthen with every new degree drop of the autumn mercury. Call it an addiction, an obsession, hyper-focused nostalgia or just an engrained part of our regional cultural identity: It's a part of who we are, no matter where we come from or where we may wind up.

Freezers are crammed with bags of roasted Hatch to last through the winter and summer. Jars of earthy, complex, red Chimayó powder commonly share prized home-pantry real estate with the simplest of seasonings, such as pepper and salt. Bags of dried pods are usually on hand for a big batch of red sauce, and those who like an extra kick in their chiles rellenos make sure that there are at least a few ounces of powdered green within reach. But how could a single ingredient—one that, as we know it today, is less than a century old—so captivate an entire geographic region?

In 1907, pioneering horticulturalist Fabián García began chile-pepper crossbreeding experiments at the New Mexico College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts (now known as New Mexico State University). But it wasn't until 1921 that the first standardized New Mexico chile (the New Mexico No. 9) came to bear.

"I think people should realize that this plant affects New Mexicans the way pinot noir and Chardonnay grapes have affected people who live in the Burgundy region of France," says food historian, author and Chile Pepper Institute cofounder Dave DeWitt. Like the great wines of Burgundy, there is deep agricultural history with the New Mexico chile that certainly predates the chile cheeseburger. You see, its specialness, its unique ability to make us weak in the knees, is all about terroir: A specific soil makeup, climate, geography—the taste of the seasons and the land, and the effort put forth by generations of farmers, can be experienced by biting into the fruit itself. Try achieving that level of culinary absorption with a Buffalo wing.

Santa Fe is teeming with restaurants where chile dishes abound, and some are more "authentically New Mexican" than others, to be sure. Wherever you head to get your chile fix, remember this: If it tastes good, sparks memories of chile experiences past and reminds you that you're home, that's all that matters. (One thing, though. If it has a bunch of cumin in it, it's probably about as New Mexican as Manhattan clam chowder.) Note: If you are vegetarian, it's always a good idea to ask if the chile sauces have meat. Many a chilegasm has been thwarted by not asking the right questions at service.

Heat of the Moment: 10 iconic local places to get your chile on right now

Atrisco Café & Bar: For more than 40 years, the family of Atrisco owner George Gundrey has served up some of the finest traditional chile dishes in the state: Mayflower Café, Central Café, Tomasita's, Tia Sophia's, Diego's and now Atrisco. Tourists and locals alike flock to Atrisco for Gundrey's Northern New Mexican favorites, including the otherworldly Christmas-smothered bean-and-beef-stuffed sopaipilla. You can get the whole-wheat sopaipilla if it makes you feel less guilty. For smaller appetites, try the "Relleno Bueno" plate: a single relleno with green chile, posole and beans.

193 Paseo de Peralta, 983-7401

El Parasol: Although a lot of locals swoon about the tacos at this small takeout-only joint, the green chile stew, house-made pork tamales, and calabacita burrito smothered in red are some of the best you'll find along the world's most annoying street.

1833 Cerillos Road, 995-8015

La Choza: The Shed's sister restaurant excels at both chiles rellenos and blue-corn carne adovada enchiladas smothered in the establishment's heavenly red, which somehow tastes slightly different than The Shed's super-popular sauce.

905 Alarid St., 982-0909

Santa Fe Bite: Green chile cheeseburger. That is all you need to know. Ten-ounce and 16-ounce varieties are listed on the menu of this venerable institution, which once operated as Bobcat Bite on Old Las Vegas Highway. If you're feeling dainty, a six-ounce burger is available upon request. 311 Old Santa Fe Trail, 982-0544

Tomasita's: Atrisco's George Gundrey mans this Santa Fe staple, which has been in the family since 1974. And as the sign says inside the waiting room, the restaurant is not responsible for your reaction to very spicy chile. The cure-all for hangovers and the onset of a cold is certainly the Tomasita's "Big Bowl": A build-your-own bowl with any combination of red or green, beans, posole, ground beef or chicken and a steaming-hot sopaipilla.

500 S Guadalupe St., 983-5721

Horseman's Haven Café: Boasts the spiciest green chile sauce in town, and it has to be ordered by name: Level Two. The level one is also good, though not as hot. Hearty eaters will enjoy the "Plato Sabroso": a 12-ounce steak and one rolled enchilada smothered how you like it, beans, posole, rice and a sopaipilla. The blue-corn cheese enchiladas are a great vegetarian option.

4354 Cerrillos Road, 471-5420

The Shed: The home of the best restaurant-made red chile sauce on the planet since the early 1950s, The Shed doesn't take reservations. Waiting is worth it, though, especially if you just dream patiently about the enchilada and taco plate or the blue corn burrito.

113 E Palace Ave., 982-9030

Los Amigos: This family-friendly, Southside hub serves up mouthwatering NM staples alongside hearty American comfort food, steaks and chops. The red chile/pork posole is rivaled only by one other place in town. Also try the chile relleno burrito with green chile sauce and papas. On Sundays from 4 to 8 pm, senior citizens get a 15-percent discount and on Wednesdays, they roll out a special kids menu with $1.99 entrees.

3904 Rodeo Road, 438-0600

Posa's The Factory & Restaurant: Red chile-pork tamales are a must here (it is a tamal factory, after all), but the red chile-pork posole should not be missed. There's an addictive oiliness and salty heat to the broth, and the cooks are generous with the porky goodness. This is the après-ski munch of your dreams.

1514 Rodeo Road, 820-7672

Tia Sophia's: This lunch-and-breakfast-only restaurant is known for its long morning queues and breakfast burritos smothered in house green. Two oddities: It costs a dollar to add an egg to your breakfast burrito, and you can request fried bologna as your burrito's meat of choice. Should you imbibe in the flesh, give this one a try.

210 W San Francisco St., 983-9880

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