No Doubt about it: Stefani and friends ruffled some feathers with latest endeavor. - Interscope
When it comes to mainstream appropriation of another culture’s imagery, few groups seem to be targeted as often as Native Americans are. One of the latest examples to make a splash is No Doubt’s video for “Looking Hot,” which featured singer Gwen Stefani—who has borrowed from cholo, seapunk and Indian (dot) cultures before—dressed up in stylized Native garb.
The period piece set in an alternate, Instagram-approved Wild West, also showed Stefani in all her squaw glory tied to a wall by the wrists as she writhed about, dancing by a tepee, sending smoke signals to the hipster gods and even riding a horse.
Ill-fatedly released on Nov. 2 (the second day of Native American Heritage Month), the video was pulled soon after, when comments like “[It’s] very insensitive and very discourteous. Stefani, you have disrespected and slighted the entire Native American people with your counterfeit portrayal of our heritage,” multiplied on the band’s YouTube page. On the flip side, messages like “[T]here is NOTHING wrong with this video…otherwise what would happen to all the Village People videos? Where does this end?” were posted in the band’s defense.
With tastemakers ranging from Ralph Lauren to Victoria’s Secret doing the same on a seemingly never-ending loop, was Stefani’s crime that grave? Gardena, ND-based Dr. Jessica R Metcalfe (Turtle Mountain Chippewa), head of Native fashion blog Beyond Buckskin and the offshoot Beyond Buckskin boutique, weighs in on this and other topics.
How do you explain the fascination that certain mainstream, non-Native American designers have with Native imagery?
Non-Native people have been fascinated with ‘the Native’ since contact. I think one of the reasons has to do with the fact that, whenever we as a country feel threatened from outside forces, we look inward for strength, and we look at America and grab the thing that separates us from other countries—and that’s the indigenous people. This is the thing that makes us completely unique. If we are a ‘nation of immigrants’—which is false, because it completely excludes Native American people—we can always call to the Indian (in movies, in fashion, in patriotic imagery) to make us unique: ‘Kill the Indians, then copy them.’
Who’s on your shit list?
[Laughs] That list is mighty long! Urban Outfitters, Forever 21, Dr. Phil, No Doubt (yeah, they apologized, but the crime was far worse than the small apology issued afterwards), [model] Karlie Kloss and Victoria’s Secret, Columbus and people who think that a holiday in his honor is totally fine, people who dress up as Indians for Halloween, schools who are down with promoting a racist environment with Indian mascots, Lalaloopsy, Glenn Beck, Gap, Blondfire, Flo Rida, Matt Lauer (whoever the fuck that is) and a ton of other no-names.
That’s a long list.
But let’s keep in mind that these bad folks only suck up about 10 percent of my time. The rest of my time and energy goes to supporting and promoting Native American fashion designers—honestly, they’re the ones who keep me sane and bring me back to a good place after I look at the nasty things the folks above have done to disrespect Native American people and our cultures and traditions. Paul Frank Industries were on the list, but they have graciously removed themselves by collaborating with us on various projects. They are now on my ‘Hey, you are awesome’ list.
On the flip side, you also deal Native products on the Beyond Buckskin Boutique; how is this different?
Dude, we’re not even in the same league. 1) I work with Native American artists – folks who are active members of Native communities. 2) These artists are exceptionally talented. 3) They are also very knowledgeable and smart about their cultures and cultural values and know which items (ie sacred items) are off-limits and shouldn’t be sold. 4) They know how to translate the artistic traditions of their Native communities to be shared by people from ALL backgrounds. 5) They don’t resort to stereotypes, and they present a new vision and a new version of ‘the Native’ in fashion. 6) They are incredibly respectful of Native people. 7) Profits from the Beyond Buckskin Boutique go directly to these artists and support small businesses, many of which are in Native communities and represent economic development strategies. I could go on.
Do you think the Native American community should be more proactive in targeting these people and staging boycotts against their products?
The Native American community is awesome. Everyone should keep doing what they’re doing. Individually, we can’t fight the current headdress outbreak alone; it’s too much. We are the minorities of the minorities; we are few, but we are strong. We are smart, and sassy, and we sure do know how to have a discussion; when folks get sick of our voices, countless others step up and share their powerful words. We’re rolling deep.
Why is it OK for someone like Johnny Depp to play a Native American character on the big screen, but not OK for Gwen Stefani to do it in a music video?
Depp is an actor who may or may not have Native ancestry, he may or may not be fighting stereotypes in this yet-to-be-released movie, and he may or may not be working with Native consultants on the set. There are too many factors…I haven’t written about the No Doubt video because I still haven’t seen it. She’s on my shit list because I grew up with her and her music, and I saw how this video affected my friends in the Native community, and it was heartbreaking. She was someone I looked up to, and now I see her as just another inconsiderate person who is perfectly fine with perpetuating racist stereotypes. She fell hard, in my eyes.
Based on this, what do you think is in store for cultural sharing and appropriation of Native imagery?
I have big expectations for the fashion industry. I want to see them collaborating more with Native American fashion designers and artists. Beyond Buckskin was founded as a means of educating. The Boutique was born out of the idea of action and economic development. You need to be able to talk the talk (educate and bitch about the offenders) and walk the walk (offer alternative representations of ‘the Native’ in fashion). It’s not easy, but we already have a group of strong, smart, sexy and talented Native people who are figuring parts of it out, and we’re hitting this really cool moment in history where we are realizing the potential of our voice. And it’s only going to get bigger and better because we all know we owe it to our People—past, present and future.
With all the other fun events going on, this seems, pardon the pun, a little pale in importance.
Shall I throw away my Halloween costume, since I am not a Zombie? My cowboy hat, since the first and last time I actually chased a steer on horseback was two decades ago, and it lasted about 3 minutes?
Or are only certain people entitled to bleat about their exploitation? No Native American should wear a suit and tie, if they are to be "authentic", by that reasoning. And besides, they are imitating people not of their heritage.
That is the conclusion of the "logic" here. Is that really what makes sense?
White folks' images and culture are ripped off a lot more than Native Americans. Duh, didn't think of that did you? Guess it doesn't fit with your agenda. Boo hoo.
I don't understand what this article is talking about. What the hell is "appropriation of native imagery"? All I see is a white girl wearing feathers. I call that "fashion." Did Indians invent feathers? I think not. EVERY culture borrows things from other cultures. That means Indians, too. The message I got from this article is "it's okay to perpetutuate native stereotypes if you're native but not if you're white." Talk about racist!
In response to Skeptic:
1) Please do not lump Native American people in the same grouping as Zombies.
2) Please remember that for hundreds of years Native people were the targets of government policies of forced assimilation. We didn't have a choice when it came to wearing a suit and tie or our customary attire.
If you've ever heard of The Dawes Act (which you probably haven't) ya'll know that Native Americans were forced into assimilation of mainstream american culture and later were forced into boarding school systems to further abandon their Native American identities and cultures. So NO, Native Americans are NOT imitating people not of their heritage, were simplying living the same as the rest of America, after all isnt that what the Government wanted?
And you idea that Zombie costums and cowboy hats are comparable to a sacred war bonnet is UNcomparable. Zombie custums and cowboy hats do not carry the same indigenous intellectual properties as our sacred tanglible items like war bonnets and several other sacred attires. Completely uncomparable
skeptic, yes, you should not participate in fun things because you are not able to play right. i am shocked by your lack of ability to process information. i'm amazed you are on-line at all by the comments you've made. you come off as really ignorant, not logical or skeptical. try harder.
THOSH, what the hell does the Dawes Act have to do what Americans choose to do TODAY. This is where I think these conversations go nowhere. Yes, the American government did a lot of bad things a long time ago. How does telling a non-native celebrity that they can't wear things that kinda sorta look native undo the Dawes Act and other past discrimination? It doesn't.
I think this article did a real disservice to people who are serious about combating native stereotypes by focusing on the negative instead of the positive. Educate the ignorant. Don't tell them "you can't do that" because it reminds you of something somebody who has nothing to do with them did before they were even born. Obviously, people get defensive when you start blaming them for every terrible thing that people who look like them ever did.
@Skeptic, BooHoo, Huh, Sigh etc. You are all intolerable, insensitive idiots. Native American nations don't want our culture to be exploited or idolized by mindless consumers and money hungry companies like Urban Outfitters, Forever 21 etc. that want to make profit off of lame interpretations of clothing and designs that our ancestors have passed down through many generations. These designs, these clothes are some of the last things we have to connect ourselves to our culture and who we are instead of being thrown into the bland mush-pot of American assimilation. The fact that you cannot understand that our people have been stripped of almost everything, our land, our culture, our dignity, without getting anything back from your greedy government makes me sad for what the future is to bring. I understand that you all are so focused on your apperance and your fashion and what others will think of you in society that you wil go to the ends of the universe to continue to be accepted, but its time to be original, think of your own styles and stop exploiting other cultures for your benefit.
Actually, let's just waive a magic wand, and eliminate Native American anything from American media and culture.
Let's see who's screaming then.
People like you... Native Americans are HONORED by fascination with them. You need to take off your persecution-colored glasses.
Disgusting idiots. YOU'RE the racist.
In response to boo hoo 2:
The so-called "Native American anything" that you are referring to in American media is actually not 'Native American.' It is a non-Native misrepresentation of our diverse cultures. So yes, I'd like these misrepresentations magically eliminated.
2) I am not honored when people perpetuate negative and damaging stereotypes about my culture.
3) Racism is connected to ideas of power. Until Indigenous people are in power, sorry, you cannot label us as racists under the definition of the term. You may however find another term to describe me:)
i am not honored by your fascination. i am honored when some one wants to be my friend instead of looking at me like i am a living oddity or a halloween caricature or someone apparently ignorant of the difference between "fashion" and "living culture."
my grandmothers and future children don't want your fascination. thx tho.
i'm not racist, i am in fact a designer who loves to have models of all backgrounds wearing our jewelry. but i will fight ignorance wherever i see it (and honey, ignorance does not look cute on you OR anybody else).
Zombies cowboys are not a race of people. Native Americans are. That is the main difference. If someone decides "black face" fashion it doesnt mean it is. There is always bad art and good art. It just shows the lack of creativity fashion and hollywood has by repeating the white girl in a headdress trend. Everyone has done it which means no one does their own shit or has their own ideas. Aside from the obvious reasons No Doubts music sucks now anyway. Id rather listen to Nickelback on a bed of rusty nails than that bullshit.
You kind of missed the point of the article.
a Zombie is fictional. A Cowboy, technically could be considered an occupation. Native Americans are not fictional and we're not an occupation, but people with a culture that is very much alive. We are not costumes or the stereotypes that are perpetrated by mainstream media. I mean you wouldn't dress up as a Holocaust survivor, Nazi soldier, or KKK Clansman or walk around in Blackface would you? The same logic of decency should be applied to dressing up as Natives.
And No one is saying that it makes the person a racist, but rather that it shows how the level of ignorance that exists when it comes to how Native Americans are viewed and how our culture is treated. Our regalia is not a costume we wear for the sake of fashion, but because it represents a large part of who we are as a people. It has nothing to do with authenticity, but rather with manner in which our culture is treated. People can be inspired by Native culture and translate that inspiration it fashion, art, music, etc, but to be inspired means to take a little time to ask questions about the meaning behind native imagery. There are things in our culture that can be shared universally with no problem, like dreamcatchers for example. War Bonnets, Eagle Staffs, Sundance, etc are things that should not be touched because they are things considered sacred and should be respected as such.
I mean Michael Jackson and Nelly Furtado are just two musical artists who have been inspired by Native culture and were successfully able to use that inspiration in a way that did not disrespect or demean our culture by resorting to the stereotypical images that are normally portrayed in the media. The problem with No Doubt's video had more to do with the overall theme of the video, I mean the way Gwen was dressed was ridiculous and demeaning to all Native women, especially because she portrayed a Native woman being captured by the "cowboys", being tied up and rolling around in a teepee asking if she looked hot. I mean, to an outsider of our culture, it just may seem like cheesy entertainment. However, for Native women, who are the only demographic more likely to be physically and sexually assaulted by non-natives, it's not a laughing matter and sets a dangerous precendence in the way we are viewed and treated. It gives off the vibe that it's okay to assault Native women because we're okay with it as long as the person doing so thinks we're hot because we're not really people. We're fictional Pocahotties and Sexy Squaws. Note the sarcasm in that last sentence.
We're not saying our culture is off limits, but there are things within our culture as there is any culture that are considered sacred and should be treated as such.
It should be considered that while women like Gwen Stefani and Karlie Kloss and hundreds of other scantly clad women, don headdresses that have actual spiritual significance, Indigenous Women are 2.5 times more likely to be raped than non-Indigenous.
That's 1 in 3 that will face sexual assault.
86% are perpetrated by non-Indigenous individuals.
Its an epidemic. And there is a direct connect between the sexualized image of Indigenous women in mass media and their inability to speak out on how they are portrayed. Native women are not objects. There needs to be responsibility taken and the first step is allowing Indigenous people to speak for themselves and be represented accurately.
http://blog.amnestyusa.org/women/addressing-epidemic-of-sexual-violence-against-native-women-in-us/
BOOM ^^ check out that link and make yourself not idiotic!