Mu Du Noodles

Mu Du's not just your standard noodle spot. It's more a Pan-Asian paradise masquerading as a laid-back hole-in-the-wall. The minimal but comfortable décor-soothing  hues on the walls,

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wood floors, a make-do patio area-that greets you on the way to your table belies the subtle culinary complexities that await. The dishes are a touch pricey, but hey, it's not just a big boring heap of overcooked noodles. Nope, proprietor Mu Du Lau takes care putting the menu together, and the result is a group of inventive and flavorful concoctions, like the beef jantaboon, a sweet-spicy stirfry with beef so succulent it puts the "tender" in tenderloin, resting atop a pile of bok choy, scallions and sweet peppers. And you'll scarf down the rich Malaysian laksa, made of wide rice noodles, colorful veggies, red coconut sauce and topped with Brazil nuts, quicker than you can say "Kuala Lumpur." It's tough to make a bad choice from the exotic menu: Everything is fresh, expertly prepared and colorful (many of the items-like the green Thai curry and jade brown rice-have a color in their name). And if you're lo-carbin' it, there are fresh fish specials, spring rolls and plenty of apps to choose from. An attentive staff rounds out the experience.

1494 Cerrillos Road, 983-1411. Dinner only. $$-$$$.



SFR Pick:

Malaysian laksa, Thai green curry.

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