Kasasoba

The sake menu at Kasasoba is impressive enough that even diners yet to acquire the taste for the ever-popular Japanese rice wine might be persuaded to find out what all the fuss is about.

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Unfortunately, the restaurant was out of both of its $15 bottles on a particular night, leaving the next choice at $25. Still, Kasasoba provides a leisurely and aesthetic meal, and it's worth it to have a bottle of "the drink of the Gods" if you go in for that sort of thing. Every meal begins with a hot towel and a cup of tea and then the decisions begin. The menu at Kasasoba remains the same, with more than half a dozen appetizers, a sushi menu, bento boxes, Japanese noodle soup or pan-fried noodles. This is definitely a prime restaurant to go to with several friends and share. A little sesame spinach here, a little vegetable tempura there and you'll be ready for the beautifully-prepared bento box, with choices of everything from shrimp, wild salmon, eel and tofu. Each box also includes rice, noodles, vegetables and other small offerings. The sides at Kasasoba are less enthralling than the fish itself; the eel in the bento, the tuna in the kaiware and masago sushi,  were tender and perfectly prepared. On a crowded night, don't expect the food to come rushing out. Then again, don't expect to wish it would. Kasasoba is a great place to linger. Just remember, don't pour your own sake: It's bad luck.

544 Agua Fria, 984-1969. Dinner nightly. $$.

SFR Pick:

Unagi bento box.

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