Sometimes you just want fancy. When you do, Geronimo comes to mind. Think muted light, candles, wait-people who are helpful and solicitous but never pretentious. First courses are rich, succulent and, if you get enough of them, plenty for a meal. Does seared foie gras with a port syrup and tomato and mango compote with some little toasts sound good? How about Maryland blue crabcakes with sautéed leeks and a chive butter sauce? Too buttery? Then start with one of the composed salads, say the golden beet with baby watercress, bleu cheese and pistachios, or maybe the organic strawberry with arugula, walnuts and bleu cheese? ***image1***Next, go for the yellow-fin tuna, smoked salmon and avocado tartare with a tiny, but so delicious salad and a couple of chive buttermilk pancakes. And there are plenty of main dishes, from mesquite-grilled filet mignon with an intense provolone potato cake to a lighter grilled portobello mushroom with a homemade tomato pasta. If you're in a meat mood, sample the fork-tender elk tenderloin. It comes with the most amazing comfort food: roasted garlic mashed potatoes. Dessert? If you have any room, there's a toffee cheesecake or a cappuccino semifredo. Or just have a glass of sauterne. You won't be sorry.

724 Canyon Road, 982-1500. Lunch and dinner daily. $$$.

SFR Pick: Hawaiian yellow-fin tuna, cherrywood-smoked salmon and avocado tartare.