While it's true good Chinese food is hard to find in the Land of Enchantment, this place is as eclectic as the people who live here, and as delicious as you could hope for. The diversity ***image1***of flavors at Chow's is hard to beat: tangy, spicy, sweet, a sort of east meets southwest. The appetizers are enough for a meal in themselves. Try the chicken potstickers, light yet meaty, with a delicious dipping sauce that is sweet, spicy and just a little sour, all at the same time. The veggie-filled eggrolls are a yummy treat for the non-meat eater, and the steamed, spicy dumplings make for a tasty snack, too. Don't skip over Chow's specials. The spicy chicken has enough veggies for a whole meal and the sauce is unusually complex, with hints of anise. The half duck has plenty of rich, not too fatty and yet delicious meat, with a crackly, crunchy skin you can't help but scarf down. And, of course, there's an entire section in the menu for noodles, piquant and slurpy.

720 St. Michael's Drive, 471-7120. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $$.

SFR Pick: Jade scallops.