At first glance, the lush and leafy plants greeting diners entering Café San Estevan appear to be just decoration. But, once inside, diners learn that the plants are linked to the restaurant's greater vision. Like markets such as Trader Joe's and Whole Foods, Café San Estevan prides itself on offering organic menu items. In particular, all chicken and lamb served at the restaurant are raised organically. Served with potatoes and sautéed green beans, the Tierra Amarilla lamb chops are a favorite at Café San Estevan. And it's no wonder why, ***image1***as the lamb is succulent and made ever more flavorful by a rosemary demi-glace, and the melange of psychedelic juices birthed by the assortment of sides. The problem with the lamb dish is that the serving is European-sized rather than the supersize all too familiar to Americans. Therefore, those who try the lamb will likely be in want of seconds and thirds. But that gives you room to feast on the restaurant's more filling dishes, such as Anna's poblano chile, featuring cheese and onions and served with rice, calabacitas and a vegetable sauce. If, after devouring the chile dish, you're still left with a hollow feeling in your belly, top it off with trés leches, a cake soaked in evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk and heavy cream, giving it an impeccably moist density.

428 Agua Fria St., 995-1996. Dinner nightly and brunch on Sundays. $$.

SFR Pick: Tierra Amarilla lamb chops.