The addition of a beer and wine license this year only cemented our fond feelings for this pizza place/pool hall/performance space/all-around hang-out. Perfect pizza calls for a delicate balance between crust and topping; too many places put all their emphasis on one or the other. Back Road gets both right. The cornmeal on the crust provides added texture, crunch and a slight nutty taste. The toppings might seem standard but the vegetables are unusually fresh and many of the meats are house made-the sausage is particularly wonderful. Chopped green chile on the dense red sauce tastes so right-spicy and fresh-it's a wonder everyone doesn't do it. And it looks like Christmas. If it's all about the crust for you, try one of the bready appetizers, like pesto or garlic cheese rolls. For even more bread, forgo pizza and try an open-faced sub on an in-house baked roll such as a homemade meatball or green chile chicken with roasted red peppers. Great salads, too.

1807 Second St., #1, 955-9055. Lunch and dinner daily. $.

SFR Pick: Sausage with green chile.