Mariscos "La Playa"

Many, many years ago when Marisco's won its first first-place prize in SFR's readers' poll for Best Seafood, this intrepid reporter stopped into the Cordova Road location to find out the secret to the seafood. The answer was brief: "No freezer."

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Indeed, freshness is a key component to Marisco's enduring popularity-both locations tend to be packed and Marisco's continues to dominate in the seafood category when we poll each summer. But it's also the saltines served with fresh salsa and creamy avocado-based dip to start. And the ample choices of seafood on the menu, everything from tangy ceviche to a back-to-life stew with octopus and shrimp to the old standby: the shrimp burrito. The dishes leave "generous" by the side of the road. Think massive, as in french fries and rice and guacamole. The service is brisk (has to be; on weekends there may be a wait) and friendly. Both locations are bright and bustling and while Marisco's is far from the sea, like the man said: No freezer.

2875 Cerrillos Road, 473-4594

537 Cordova Road, 982-2790

Lunch and dinner daily except Tuesdays. $$

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