It is the most talked-about restaurant in town. Santa Feans love eating here, talking about eating here, talking about planning on eating here, planning on talking about eating here, and talking about who's been heard talking about eating here. The servers' cufflinks, monogrammed with a "G"; the crisp folds of the starched ***image1***napkins, the stark and stylish white interior décor and, most importantly, who was spotted dining with whom; these are all topics of conversation among the food-obsessed. But beneath all the buzz, Geronimo talks the talk and walks the walk. The ingredients are of indisputably high quality. Every plate bears the evidence of skilled labor, not only in the elaborate presentation, but in the carefully trimmed vegetables, perfectly cooked meats and creatively garnished desserts. The menu changes daily, but some favorites remain, such as Chef Eric DiStefano's chile honey grilled Mexican white prawns with crispy jasmine rice cakes, frisée red onion salad and yuzu basil aioli. (If you just read that sentence and came away with blah blah blah prawns blah blah rice, don't worry; one bite will fill in the blanks with yum yum yum.) Other dishes put favorite pairings, like diver scallops and Nuske's bacon, together with different accompaniments according to the kitchen's whim. The distinct opposite of simple food, Geronimo's menu requires serious reading comprehension skills (and maybe a copy of The Food Lover's Dictionary), but with great effort come great rewards.

724 Canyon Road, 982-1500.
Dinner nightly.
Lunch Tuesday through Sunday.
Brunch Sunday. $$$
www.geronimorestaurant.com