A dozen of our al fresco favorites.
Do you people in Santa Fe have any idea how lucky you are? In New York City, patio patrons have to shower after lunch in order to remove the complimentary layer of diesel exhaust that has settled. In Albuquerque, "patio" isn't even "sidewalk." It's usually "plastic tables set up in a parking lot" and without a dappled dot of shade. But Santa Fe has an abundance of al fresco options, most of which will charm your Prada pants right off. Hidden courtyards, huge shade trees, gurgling fountains, lush gardens, not to mention real tables with white tablecloths, it's all here.
Summer in Northern New Mexico is pretty good, but if you long for the South of France, you only have to travel to 315 Old Santa Fe Trail, where Louis Moskow will fool you into believing that the sunflower fields of Provençe start in his back yard. 315's small but shady front patio is open for lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays during the summer, and prices are reasonable for the consistently high quality. Take your time nibbling on a wedge of country pâté ($6) or marveling over a slab of halibut with blood red oranges, blue potatoes and green olive relish ($14), and the fantasy will last longer. You are highly encouraged to make your selections from the chalkboard specials and a order glass of wine from the stellar cellar.
315 Old Santa Fe Trail, 986-9190
Sena Plaza is arguably the most photogenic courtyard in the city. Tucked away in the corner of what was built more than 150 years ago as the Sena family's huge hacienda, La Casa Sena has staked out prime open air dining turf. With the hacienda's two-story walls and tall trees providing shade, temperatures are mild even during the hottest part of the day. The food here is approachable but interesting, with drool inducers like pineapple green chile granita ($4) and squash blossom empanadas with black truffles, Mexican cheese and a mango salsa ($12)! After your meal you should definitely wander across the courtyard for a chocolate nibble from the Todos Santos chocolatiers.
125 East Palace Ave., 988-9232
The guy making your dinner at this 5-year-old revamp of the famed restaurant on Canyon Road was just last month named Best Chef in the Southwest by the James Beard Foundation. Which is to say, he's all that
and
a bag of sweet potato chips. When the weather's nice, I recommend you eschew the white-on-white dining rooms for a meal on the quiet, secluded patio, or a few cocktails on the terrace (where, by the way, you also can smoke). Expect over-the-top food, highly informed wine service and to pay more for the experience.
653 Canyon Road, 982-4353
The Cowgirl is pretty much the exact opposite of The Compound. Here nobody blinks if your 2-year-old hides under the picnic table pretending he and his index finger are in a Wild West shootout with
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the art matron occupying one of the outdoor booths. Don't bother dressing up; in fact you'll stick out unless you come in jeans and a T-shirt. The kitchen serves up sweet, smoky barbecue, dripping with tangy sauce and our favorite Frito pie ($6.95): still in the little bag the chips came in, smothered with chili, cheese and onions. Get there early to stake out a spot on the patio; there's always plenty of room inside if you get cold (or riddled with imaginary bullets by a 2-year-old).
319 South Guadalupe St., 982-2565
The fact that La Posada is now a fancy-pants Rock Resort and Spa means two important things. One: Staff here tend to take themselves a little too seriously. Two: The food is pretty damned good. On a recent afternoon the pear and ginger soup ($12) lived up to it's reputation, with a delightfully complex,
pear-y
but not-too-sweet flavor that had us practically licking the bowl. One more thing about Fuego: It's also very expensive, so go for lunch unless you're spending someone else's money.
330 East Palace Ave., at La Posada Resort & Spa, 986-0000
If it's just good grub you're after, follow the crowds over to Guadalupe Café, in the shadow of the Roundhouse. During late winter, when the Legislature is in session, this place is all business, but come summer the vibe is more relaxed. There's plenty of shade from the dozens of umbrellas, and plenty of friends lingering over a breakfast of sausage and cheese enchiladas ($7.50), smothered with chile that can be blistering. Don't even ask for chile on the side-they won't do it. Just take it like a real New Mexican and blot the tears with an extra napkin.
422 Old Santa Fe Trail, 982-9762
A homey, country-style breakfast is free with your room at this historic inn near the Plaza, but the atmosphere is so alluring that the Inn hosts a steady group of regulars for brunch every weekend. That all ends this September, though, when the Inn will close for good after nearly 25 years of business. Owner Louise Stewart can't reveal what the new owners have planned, but she assures SFR that it will no longer be an inn. To allow fans plenty of time to say goodbye, Stewart is adding lunch service Wednesdays through Saturdays as of June 15. Lunch will replace Friday and Saturday afternoon tea on Grant Corner's capacious veranda, but Stewart says she'll still do it for parties of eight or more, by special request.
122 Grant Ave., 983-6678
Harry's is always popular and always packed. Those who come to soothe their addiction to Harry's comfort food tell the hostess they'll take the first available table. But I think it's worth waiting a little longer for a seat on the landscaped back patio, where late in the day, you'll sit in the restaurant's shadow. The food is pure American-turkey meatloaf with mashed potatoes and gravy ($8.95)-with generous helpings of New Mexican and Mexican, a dollop of Cajun and a dash of international (as in the Moroccan vegetable stew, $9.25). If you do want to sit inside, ask for the round table near the back door; it's directly in the path of the air conditioner.
96-B Old Las Vegas Hwy., 989-4629
You shouldn't have to stumble onto this marvelous little South American joint on your way to the knitting store next door. Someone really should tell you about it. The cozy interior plaza, covered on two sides, shady on three, sunny in the middle. The peach-fuzzy, blushing young waiters. The agave wine margaritas ($5.95). The unforgettable
chile en nogada
($12.95)-a poblano pepper stuffed with two kinds of meat and nuts, topped with pomegranate seeds and a lusciously creamy sauce. Yeah. That place is good. Someone should really mention it sometime.
409 West Water St., 986-9930
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Inside, this café is wicked stylish, with white walls, red flowers, white tablecloths and red chairs. Outside, it's the
lovelier side of Santa Fe. A huge box elder droops over the brick patio, walled on three sides and open to the street on the fourth. But it's what's on the plate here that matters, and Chef Tony Lewis' outstanding food makes this place the sleeper hit of the city. Go in between lunch and dinner and order from the wine bar menu. May I suggest the warm lobster over champagne tarragon truffle oil vinaigrette ($25)? If you overheard me eating this dish, you'd say, "I'll have what she's having!"
217 Johnson St., 992-1065
Sitting under the giant, bright green carved wooden mantel that serves as the focal point for the newish Pachanga's colorful back patio, I wondered if I'd be the first to die during an earthquake, or the only one to live. And then I thought, who cares? I've got a passel of Coronitas and a plate full of
xochimilco
($9.95), one of those dishes that is best eaten without looking or asking too many questions. The stuff is fantastic and that's all you need to know.
416 Agua Fria St., 988-5991
Nestled in the front yard of a former home on Agua Fria Street, Ristra's patio tables are surrounded by the kind of white plastic folding chairs that make you feel like you're at a wedding. But a nice wedding it is! Though the food has mostly French influences, Chef Xavier Grenet makes a concerted effort to include New Mexican ingredients, with red chile croutons on his grilled quail salad ($12.50), and a sage sauce on his rack of lamb ($29.50). Stop by in the beginning of July when the 660 square-foot bar addition is expected to be
completed, adding booze to the menu.
548 Agua Fria St., 982-8608
Santa Fe Reporter