A Damn Fine Cup of Coffee

Just don't get it from a guy riding a burro

Waking up the morning after tying a few on can be a little rough. That’s why we have the precious elixir of coffee to see us through yet another day. But there’s more nuance to coffee than you might expect.

Java in America has gone through three different phases. The first wave was characterized by vacuum packaging, automated home coffee makers and mass-produced domestically available pre-ground beans. The second wave was a reaction to the awful taste and dubious origin of the first wave of coffee. It could also be thought of as the dawn of the "specialty coffee." Think of that poor barista behind the counter rolling his eyes when the person in front of you in line at the coffee shop orders the half-double-decaf-half-caf-carmel-moccachino-soy-latte, with a twist of lemon, and you get the sense of what the second wave is all about. But now, we've entered the third wave—a land of free-trade, scientifically calibrated, usually light roasted (though not always), single-origin taste sensations.

"I think, personally, there's a cultural expectation of these specialty coffee shops being arrogant and pretentious. You know, baristas who think they know more about coffee, who do know more about coffee than the normal person," says Dylan Miller, general manager of Iconik Coffee Roasters (1600 Lena St., 428-0966).

Another coffee roaster in Santa Fe is Ohori's (505 Cerillos Road, and 1098 S St. Francis Drive, 982-9692), and they make a fine brew. According to Tai Ayers, Ohori's general manager, it was the first specialty roaster in Northern New Mexico. "I was just at a coffee shop in Denver that was very much a third wave shop. And it was so simple. And that's what Ohori's was [in the beginning]. You could get a black cup of coffee. And we still do a complimentary cup when you buy beans," Ayers says. "What's happened for us is that we've ridden this wave of those huge companies coming and making these fancy drinks; we're busy being very simple and focused on taste profiles. And that's what third wave has gone back to. We're here doing the same thing we've always been doing. A lot of people, when they say they don't like a burnt bean, I feel what they're tasting is rancid lipids."

This is just the tip of the iceberg, as far as coffee minutia is concerned. For instance, did you know that milk was originally used to cover the taste of rotten coffee? The foodie era is here, and you can improve your experience of America's favorite beverage with just a little adventure and a dash of knowledge.

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