Small Bites

It’s best to dine here with partners willing to let you steal a bite off their plates (but try not to drip on the linen; you’re sitting at one of the few places in the city where one can procure valet parking, after all). From the selection of warm rolls to the dreamy creamsicle cake ($12), all the finishing touches at Geronimo are in place. In the spirit of playing with your food, choose the Hawaiian ahi tuna sashimi and tartare appetizer ($19) and its tiny pancakes, upon which you heap the minced fish and avocado, laying on as much caviar, wasabi crème fraîche, soy lime syrup and sriracha with olive oil as you dare. If you’re not in the mood for the signature Tellicherry-rubbed elk ($42) for your main course, consider that they’ve taken all the work out of the mesquite-grilled Maine lobster tails ($43), with tender meat just barely attached to the shell, allowing the buttery joy of sea bug without the potential for flying crustacean. What will fly are your spirits.