Take This Giblet and Shove It

Making the case for dining out on Thanksgiving

One of my most memorable Thanksgivings was spent with a friend in Seattle, eating turkey on bagels while roaming the empty streets of the University District. We hadn’t made reservations anywhere, and we were broke, to boot. And once, when I was a teenager, my mother and stepfather took my brother and me to a fancy-schmancy hotel-resort in Phoenix for the annual feast.

It was then that I developed a taste for the finer things in dining-out Turkey Day life, although most years, for my family and a handful of friends, it's traditionally a stay-at-home affair. As the only chef in in the brood, there are, of course, high expectations—but I don't mind it a bit. There are times, however, when I would rather leave the apron at home, ditch the giblet-fiddling and spend Thanksgiving at a real restaurant. Hell, I'd even do the turkey bagel, if I thought I could get away with it.

There's this lingering myth in Santa Fe that Thanksgiving dinners at restaurants here are too expensive, and I think it stems from the heft of wine dinners offered year-round—many of which can launch your meal well into the triple digits. Sure, there may be some restaurants serving super-expensive dinners on Nov. 26, but when it comes to dining out on Thanksgiving here, don't believe the myth.

The American Farm Bureau released a new report this month placing the median cost of a traditional at-home Thanksgiving dinner at $50.11. per person. Add even more scratch if you're into heritage turkey, gluten-free bread, catered desserts and organic produce.

I couldn't weasel my way out of the at-home holiday this year, but as a service to SFR readers, I scoured the local landscape to find a few restaurants serving Thanksgiving grub at or lower than $50 per person. Tax, gratuity and beverages aren't included here, but just think of that added expense as a replacement for rotting leftovers, having to sit at the kid's table (which I do every year by choice) and washing all those dishes.

Posa's El Merendero
3538 Zafarano Drive, 473-3454 and 1514 Rodeo Road, 820-7672

OK, so it's not a full Thanksgiving meal, but each year around this time, Posa's rolls out one of its many secret weapons: the turkey tamale. Stuffed with turkey, calabacitas, chile and cheese, these little envelopes of seasonal love may make you swear off a big holiday meal for life…or at least a year. You can't precisely duplicate my bagel experience in the Emerald City here, because the tamales are only sold by the dozen ($22.69) and half-dozen ($14.02). Is it worth it? You bet your sad-looking, burnt pumpkin pie it is.

Camel Rock Casino
17486A Hwy. 84/285, 984-8414

I know, I know. You're thinking, Who wants to eat a Thanksgiving feast at a casino? Well, for starters: gamblers, travelers, people on a tight budget, state and Pueblo cops on break and my people-watching-addict lazy ass. Promising all the fixings, the price clocks in at $9.95 per person. And no, it's not a buffet. The meal will be served in the Pueblo Artist Café as a sit-down affair from 11 am to 7 pm.

Osteria d'Assisi
58 S Federal Place, 986-5858

Leave it to owner Lino Pertusini and his chefs to go the Italian route this year, from vegetable antipasti to Piedmont-style turkey, roasted lamb shank, roasted NY strip with mushrooms, breaded eggplant, soup or salad and a selection of desserts served with vanilla gelato and whipped cream. It's a steal at $48 per person.

Estevan Restauranté
125 Washington Ave., 930-5363

The newest venture by longtime local culinary legend and former Franciscan monk, chef Estevan Garcia's eponymous restaurant is situated in the upper floor of Hotel Chimayó de Santa Fe. Free-range organic turkey, rib eye steak with Santa Fe Farmers Market butternut squash soup and red chile demi-glace, atole with New Mexico blue cornmeal, tres leches cake with strawberry-cream icing…damn, check the website for the full prix-fixe menu that costs an even $50.

L'Olivier

229 Galisteo St., 989-1919

L'Olivier just oozes that welcoming vibe, which you will hear about more soon, and for Thanksgiving, they've cooked up something special. You can get the traditional turkey plate with stuffing, gravy, cranberry relish, mashed potatoes, green beans and acorn squash ($27), or hit the "Turduckey" ($30), a generous slice of turkey stuffed with duck, served with duck meat on the side and the same sides mentioned above.

You'll find plenty of other businesses where you can get your Thanksgiving on in Santa Fe without emptying your wallet, but don't be an asshole: Make a reservation, and in the spirit of the season, please make a food or monetary donation or volunteer at the Food Depot (1222 Siler Road, 471-1633), Bienvenidos Outreach (1511 5th St., 986-0583), Kitchen Angels (1222 Siler Road, 471-7780) or another local nonprofit that uplifts at-risk populations. Call them for details. Happy ThanksGIVING!

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