More than 100 years ago, the sturdy brick structure that now houses Tomasita's was built as a station house for the Chile Line, a stretch of track that transported people and chile (and a few other things) back and forth between Santa Fe and southern Colorado. Today, people transport themselves to this busy restaurant with a low-key vibe and Tomasita's transports chile straight into their waiting bellies. The only interruption in a tall stack of enchiladas is a short spur leading straight to the basket of golden, puffy sopaipillas. Take the first few bites straight, opening up the airy pocket, then drizzle honey all over the doughy interior. Next, drag the sopa through the pool of chile enveloping your enchiladas and allow the crisp, chewy, sweet and spicy textures and flavors to compete for your tongue's attention. Repeat until the sopaipilla is gone, and then get back on track with the enchiladas. Try to remember your manners and avoid shoveling heaping bites into your gaping mouth like a frantic boilerman stoking a steam engine. It's not polite. Playing the choo, choo, chew game with a spoonful of your toddler's pinto beans, however, is perfectly acceptable.

500 S. Guadalupe St., 983-5721. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $