Forget for one night about trans fats and cholesterol; lose the minimalistic Asian-fusion-edible-native-sculptures-on-a-plate for one evening. This Old Las Vegas Highway tradition ain't afraid to indulge, and when it comes to steak, that's the way it should be. ***image1***Dinner here is a worthy indulgence in rich, satisfying food. Start with any of the award-winning appetizers; each will whet your appetite well, especially the tasty morsels of sautéed whole mushrooms. As the name implies, Steaksmith's entrées focus on meat: sirloins, T-bones, filets, you name it. The staff here chooses fine cuts, ages them skillfully and cooks them to pink-toned perfection; your filet as a result is as tender and tasty as, well, butter. Want surf and turf? This once-in-vogue treat, now considered an amateurish way to eat, should be back in style, if only as an excuse to load up on Steaksmith's zippy sirloin and ample crab legs, shrimp or scallops. The side of baked potato is butter-slathered and topped with a fine mess of chive sour cream. They really know their steak stuff here, but the staff-and atmosphere, for that matter-are far from stuffy. Family-friendly and inviting, Steaksmith suffers no pretension. The seafood and apps prove Steaksmith is about much more than steak, but there's no doubt the place is exactly what a steakhouse should be: comfortable, unpretentious and staffed by folks willing to look away when you undo your belt a notch.

104 Old Las Vegas Hwy. #B, 988-3333, www.santafesteaksmith.com. Dinner nightly. $$