The restorative New Mexican food at The Shed is true to tradition-well, except for the perpetually incongruous garlic bread that takes the place of sopaipillas here. But locals are used to the garlic bread (which is actually pretty good), and it's one of those quirks that gives this place its charm. Ducking into The Shed from the long Palace Avenue portal brings hungry chile-hounds past adobe walls originally raised when this was New Spain, but a slightly more recent addition has raised the roof, spreading diffused light over the tables. Your plaid shorts ***image1***and favorite flip-flops are fine at this family-run joint where the servers are sweet and sometimes sassy. Award-winning red chile is the real draw here, and it arrives slathered over blue corn enchiladas, enrobing tender chunks of pork in the adovada. The green chile's not too shabby either, permeating the pork and potatoes in their green chile stew. Do try the posole even if you think you hate the stuff-The Shed has a way with hominy. And nothing beats a Shed burger and a couple of margaritas after a long day at work or seeing the sights.

113½ E. Palace Ave., 982-9030, www.sfshed.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $