"Somebody needed to bring back the classics." So said the Railyard's chef/owner Louis Moskow, who also owns the French bistro 315, when we asked him why he would turn his attention from bouillabaisse to baby back ribs and macaroni and cheese. ***image1***And really, what's the difference between steak frites and New York strip with fries? Far from being a stuffy, formal French restaurant, 315 is a cozy little place where the comfort food happens to speak French. So it should be no surprise that Moskow also knows how to say bon appétit with pan-fried pork chops. On a recent visit we marveled at a special side dish of crisp-tender green beans bathed in a rich porcini mushroom cream sauce and topped with ribbons of fried onions. We had devoured half of the dish before it even occurred to us that it was simply a much, much better version of that dish Mom used to make from the recipe on the can of Campbell's Cream of Mushroom Soup. Like green bean casserole on Thanksgiving or grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup on a gray winter day, eating at the Railyard gives us that warm, fuzzy feeling inside.

530 S. Guadalupe St., 989-3300, www.railyardrestaurantandsaloon.com. Lunch Monday-Saturday; dinner nightly. $$