Even though this 50-year-old eatery is nationally known for a huge selection of margaritas, Maria's still satisfies locals with traditional northern New Mexican food just like your abuelita used to make. What began as a modest takeout window back in the 1950s has morphed over the years into a series of dining rooms and a spacious covered patio. The current owner, Al Lucero, bought the place in 1985 and published his famous Great Margarita Book in 1999, bringing margarita lovers from across the country to this tequila Mecca. In the main dining room, the tables are bathed in the combined light of a fluorescent glow from a glass-enclosed part of the kitchen and reflected neon from the wagon-wheel chandeliers. The spare décor keeps the focus on the food; stacked blue corn enchiladas, chiles rellenos and guacamole are all standout accompaniments to one of Maria's high-octane cocktails.

555 W. Cordova Road, 983-7929, www.marias-santafe.com. Lunch and dinner daily. $$