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Café Pasqual’s

October 18, 2006, 12:00 am
By
Over the past few years, there has been a subtle but significant transformation at this beloved 35-year-old Santa Fe institution. Inside, the diminutive dining room is still decorated with funky, colorful murals by the Oaxacan painter Leovigildo Martinez. Outside, folks still line up for a table on Saturday and Sunday mornings (Pasqual's will take reservations for dinner, but not for breakfast or lunch). They haven't stopped serving breakfast all day; no, they haven't ***image1***stopped making their own sausage and chorizo; and don't worry, you can still get a seat at the big oak community table in the center of the dining room. No, this transformation has been nearly invisible. Chef/owner Katharine Kagel has slowly, steadily taken her restaurant almost entirely organic. From apples to zucchini, Kagel's right-hand man, Rudy Gabaldon, has successfully stocked his fridges with the most pious of produce and lined his organic larder from arrowroot to yeast. That doesn't necessarily mean you can taste a difference in the smoked trout hash, chicken mole enchiladas or the Niman Ranch pork chop with caramelized onion, candied kumquats and sautéed red chard. All of the Latin American, Asian and traditional American dishes that make up the eclectic menus here taste pretty much the same as they did before. The prices may seem a little high on some things, but knowing your tummy is eating all organic? Priceless.

121 Don Gaspar Ave., 983-9340, www.pasquals.com. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $$$

 

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