After many years in a nondescript strip mall out on St. Michael's, this spring Bert's moved to new digs in the heart of town, taking over the space across from El Santuario de Guadalupe that was formerly home to Pachanga and El Encanto. Owner Fernando Olea, who is from Mexico City, had been overseeing both upscale Pachanga and low-key Bert's, but when the lease was up on St. Michael's, Olea decided to ***image1***condense and take the best of both places. So now we have the popular, approachable taco menu from Bert's available in the cozy, white-walled and dark-beamed dining rooms and on the funky patio off Agua Fria. As soon as you're seated, the server brings salty golden chips and a selection of salsas. On one recent visit these included a chunky, citrusy tomatillo; a smooth, smoky, creamy chipotle; and a thin tomato salsa with the tang of spicy V8. Do yourself a favor and try the tacos. El Iztaccihuatl (don't try to pronounce it, just point to it on the menu) is a three-meat sampler for two that includes spice-rubbed pork al pastor, well-seasoned bistek, and a decadent thin-sliced beef and bacon mixture called alambre. The meats come side by side on a sizzling skillet, along with a stack of warm corn tortillas. Washed down with an icy cold margarita, this meal is heaven on earth.

416 Agua Fria St., 474-0791. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. $-$$