I called it last year. It was too early in Georgia’s stint to fast-track it, but everything about the Johnson Street eatery screams out winner—from Lloyd Abrams and wife, Janet Salk of Geronimo reputation welcoming it to the family, to their hearty tavern drinks menu that includes such gems as the Abiquiú Rose ($16), a tangy mix of Ketel One Citroen, elderflowery St. Germaine, Pama pomegranate liqueur and lime juice, and the A Stieglitz ($12), a dry Hendrick’s gin martini served with onions. But this is about the food, right? Treat yo self with the lamb satay ($14), which sings thanks to some on-point mint basil pesto, the ever-tasty shrimp and grits ($14) or Georgia’s version of down-home in the form of a housemade mac ’n’ cheese ($12) that’s drenched in Parmesan, Gruyère and white cheddar. And that’s just the first course. For main, try the far-from-despicable pan-seared duck breast ($32), which is served with just the right amount of roasted fingerling potatoes, or the perennial steak and frites ($29)—a chimichurri-marinated tenderloin served with red onion, watercress and herb French fries that is, in a nod to the restaurant’s namesake, a work of art.