The core of the menu rarely changes at this romantic Provençal restaurant, and although the menu offers some must-do dishes, it's the daily specials, marked on a chalkboard brought to your table, where the kitchen really shines. There are few things as pleasant as sitting in the dappled sun of 315's streetfront patio, trying to decide between a wedge of pâté or a calamari-topped Caesar salad, to be followed by simple steak frites or a more racy halibut

en papillote

. There is always an element of danger in ordering a special-it could be disappointing (like a recent porcini risotto that was overcooked) or, somehow worse, it could be stellar, never to be seen again. But at 315, a spirit of adventure is rewarded more often than not, and lovers of adventurous French-inspired food regularly gather here, especially in the wine bar, for appetizers and selections from the extensive wine list. Check the dry-erase boards behind the bar for the day's by-the-glass choices, and don't be afraid to ask for advice on pairings, especially when the jovial chef/owner Louis Moskow is out working the room.

315 Old Santa Fe Trail, 986-9190,

. Lunch Tuesday-Saturday; dinner nightly. $$$