It's generally a safe bet to avoid any restaurant located within close proximity to either a cemetery or a shopping mall. Jinja happens to form a geographic triangle with both the DeVargas Mall and the Santa Fe National Cemetery. But despite being located in a strip mall alongside offices for Prudential, Cingular and Del Norte Credit Union, Jinja offers a geographic and culinary respite. Since its welcome facelift a while back, Jinga has been transformed into a comfortable oasis in the city's concrete (or adobe, as the case may be) jungle. The restaurant is all about comfort. Dim lighting and dark

decor complement throw pillows in the booths and 1930s-era South


Pacific travel posters on the walls. But this is no

one-trick pony. Jinja serves up dishes from Japan, China, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Singapore. Those squeamish about Asian food will predictably go straight for the grilled teriyaki chicken. Not a bad choice, but it doesn't do justice to globe-trotting servings of Shanghai pork, shaking beef or Singapore noodles. If you prefer a little sunlight with your imperial lettuce wraps and Vietnamese spring rolls, there's even a little patio at your disposal-even if the view is of  the Albertson's parking lot.

510 N. Guadalupe St., Ste. P, 982-4321.

Lunch and dinner daily. $$