Since most raves about Guadalajara begin with swooning tributes to shrimp, let's begin with a swooning tribute to service. This beloved south side Mexican seafood spot has the market on


efficiency and courteousness. Although it's always lively, there's never a wait for a table. And even at its most crowded, there's never a wait for anything.

OK, now the shrimp. Wait, first the chips. Fresh, warm, salty with hot, hot, hot salsa. Gratis. Order a beer or a soda or ask for extra water. Everything worth tasting at Guadalajara has a kick, most especially

Camarones a la Diabla

, succulent and generously portioned, swimming in a red chile sauce that will bring tears to your eyes, both for its heat and its goodness. If you absolutely need less spice (why?) go for the Mazatlan Shrimp, in which the same main jumbo ingredient is sautéed with mushrooms in a wine sauce. All these dishes are served with beans and rice and topped with freshly made guac. There are plenty of non-shrimp items on the menu to choose from. In fact, the menu is quite large, with everything from rib-eye steak to fajitas to enchiladas. Hard to know what to say about those items, though. We stick with the shrimp.

3877 Cerrillos Road, 424-3544.

Lunch and dinner daily. $$