In the political skein, there are red states and blue states. At Horseman's Haven, there is red chile and green chile and they both will kick your ass. It's hard to remember how we made do back when Horseman's was closed and preparing for its new digs. Since its re-opening last year, into brighter, larger accommodations next door to the older, funkier (but still beloved) former space, this Santa Fe landmark hasn't missed a beat. This isn't where you go for a mimosa-style brunch. This is Sunday morning hard-core breakfast: Chile so hot you'll order a Coke at 8 am because a cup of coffee just adds insult to injury. Yet it's not just about the burn. Horseman's got the touch with the flavor, and their hash browns make all others seem like wanna-be contenders. The service is a no-brainer combo of truck-stop speed and home-town courtesy. The portions seem insurmountable (and yet somehow we finish), and the price is right. You can get lunch and dinner there, too, but it's breakfast that really gets our vote.

4354 Cerrillos Road, 471-5420. Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Monday-Saturday; breakfast and lunch Sunday. $.

SFR Pick:

Breakfast burrito, Christmas.